Workhorse Tooling 101

Pick the right
diamond the
first time.

Four tools can bolt onto the same machine and do four completely different jobs. Here's how to tell them apart, and how to know which one your slab actually wants.

Question 01

What are you trying to remove?

Bare concrete, or something sitting on top of it. This picks your pattern.

Question 02

How hard is the concrete?

This picks your bond, and the answer is the opposite of what most people guess.

Question 03

How aggressive of a finish?

This picks your grit, and how many passes you're signing up for.

The whole page in one picture

Smooth on the left.
Savage on the right.

Every tool below fits the same machine. They move left to right from refining concrete to ripping material off the top of it.

Smoother · Concrete grinding

Workhorse 4-Bar diamond grinding disc

4-Bar

Workhorse 2-Bar Curved diamond grinding disc

2-Bar Curved

Workhorse Triple Arrow diamond grinding disc

Triple Arrow

Workhorse PCD disc for coating and glue removal

PCD

Smoother · More controlled More aggressive
Concrete grinding Coating removal

More aggressive · Coating removal

Step 01 of 03

Choose your pattern

Pattern is about how much diamond touches the floor. Less contact area means more of the machine's weight lands on each segment, and more weight per segment means more bite.

ToolingAggressivenessBest forWhy choose it
4-Bar General grinding and surface prep Smooth, controlled grind, good tooling life, consistent scratch
2-Bar Curved Harder concrete, more aggressive grinding Less contact area puts more pressure on each segment
Triple Arrow Aggressive prep and lighter coating removal Leading edges bite into coatings and evacuate material
PCD Thick coatings, glue, mastic, epoxy Tears and scrapes coatings off instead of grinding through them
Workhorse 4-Bar diamond grinding disc, four straight segments

4-Bar

Start here

The everyday workhorse

Four bars put more diamond on the floor. That spreads the machine's weight over more cutting surface, which gives you a smoother, more controlled grind and generally longer tooling life. If you're not sure where to start, start here.

  • Bare concrete
  • Garage floors
  • Warehouse slabs
  • General CSP prep
  • Consistent scratch patterns
  • Larger production areas
Workhorse 2-Bar Curved diamond grinding disc

2-Bar Curved

More bite

When the 4-Bar is skating instead of cutting

Fewer segments touching the floor means more of the grinder's weight lands on each one. More pressure, more bite, more aggressive grinding. This matters most on dense, hard-troweled concrete that tends to glaze diamonds.

  • Hard concrete
  • Opening dense troweled slabs
  • Faster stock removal
  • High spots
  • Aggressive profiling
Workhorse Triple Arrow diamond grinding disc with arrow-shaped segments

Triple Arrow

The bridge

More aggressive than bars, short of a PCD

The leading edges of arrow-style segments bite into material instead of riding over it. This is the bridge between normal grinding diamonds and PCD coating-removal tooling: use it when standard bars aren't enough but you don't need to jump all the way to PCD.

  • Thin coatings
  • Paint
  • Adhesive residue
  • Light epoxy
  • Mortar and thinset residue
  • High spots
  • Stubborn slabs
Workhorse PCD disc for heavy coating and glue removal

PCD

Removal only

Polycrystalline diamond — when something has to come off

PCDs are not metal-bond diamonds with more attitude. They're a different tool. They tear, scrape and fracture material off the top of the slab rather than refine the concrete underneath it. If you've got a quarter inch of epoxy or gummy carpet adhesive, stop trying to grind it off with normal diamonds.

  • Thick epoxy
  • Glue
  • Carpet adhesive
  • Mastic
  • Elastomeric coatings
  • Thick paint
  • Stubborn floor coverings

PCDs are removal tools, not your final prep step. Once the bulk coating is off, switch back to metal-bond diamonds to clean up the residue, even out the scratch pattern and establish your final concrete profile.

Step 02 of 03

Choose your bond

Bond is the metal matrix holding the diamonds in. It's the single most confusing thing for new contractors, because the rule runs backwards from what you'd expect.

What you're grindingWhat to run
Hard concrete
Soft bond
Medium concrete
Medium bond
Soft concrete
Hard bond
Hard Medium Soft

Watch the color bars: they run hard → soft going down the left, and soft → hard going down the right. That flip is the whole rule. Medium is the only one that matches up.

Soft bond

For hard concrete

Hard concrete doesn't wear the metal matrix down very quickly on its own. A softer bond wears away faster, continually exposing fresh diamond so the tool keeps cutting instead of polishing itself smooth.

  • Very hard, dense slabs
  • Heavily power-troweled floors
  • Diamonds keep glazing
  • Tooling looks shiny but isn't cutting
  • Repeated passes, little visible profile

Medium bond

The everyday starting point

Your general-purpose choice for average concrete. If you don't know the hardness and the slab looks normal, start here, watch how the tooling cuts and wears, then adjust. It's what the Mule ships with for a reason.

  • Unknown slabs
  • Typical interior concrete
  • General coating prep
  • First job on a new floor

Hard bond

For soft, abrasive concrete

Soft concrete is abrasive and eats tooling. A harder bond holds the diamonds in longer so you're not burning through segments on a floor that's doing the grinding for you.

  • Soft concrete
  • Green or young concrete
  • Abrasive slabs
  • Rain-damaged concrete
  • Floors chewing diamonds fast

Tool isn't cutting and looks shiny?Go softer.

Tool is disappearing too fast?Go harder.

Step 03 of 03

Choose your grit

Workhorse runs 16, 30 and 80 grit — a three-step lineup that covers opening a floor, prepping it, and refining it.

16

Open it up

Very aggressive

Your aggressive metal. This is what ships standard on the Mule with a Medium 4-Bar, and it's a legitimate general-purpose contractor starting tool.

  • Starting on an unknown slab
  • Opening hard troweled concrete
  • Minor coating residue
  • Flattening and high spots
  • Strong mechanical profile

30

General prep

Medium to aggressive

The middle ground, and where a lot of everyday work lives. Use it when 16 would be unnecessarily aggressive for what's in front of you.

  • General coating prep
  • Typical bare concrete
  • Refining a 16-grit scratch
  • Lighter surface removal

80

Refine

Fine

More about refinement than removal. This is where you clean up what the coarser metals left behind and start moving toward a smoother finish.

  • Reducing previous scratches
  • Light surface grinding
  • Smoothing a prepped floor
  • Transitioning to polishing

Grit alone does not guarantee a CSP. Concrete hardness, machine weight, tooling pattern, bond, grinder speed and how many tools you're running all affect the finished profile. Always verify the profile your coating manufacturer requires.

Print this one

The fast
cheat sheet

Find your situation on the left. Start with what's on the right.

What are you dealing with?Start here
Normal bare concrete4-Bar / Medium / 16 or 30
Very hard concrete2-Bar / Soft / 16
Soft or abrasive concrete4-Bar / Hard / 16 or 30
Hard concrete and the diamonds are glazingSoft bond + fewer segments or fewer tools
Thin epoxy, paint or light adhesiveTriple Arrow / 16 or 30
Thick epoxyPCD → then metal diamonds
Glue or masticPCD → then metal diamonds
High spots, aggressive stock removal2-Bar or Triple Arrow / 16
General coating prep4-Bar / 16 to 30
Refining heavy scratches30 → 80

These are starting points, not rules. Every slab is different, and concrete hardness and surface condition ultimately decide which tooling performs best.

Troubleshooting

My diamonds
aren't cutting

Shiny tooling, passes with nothing to show for them

That's glazing. The diamonds are there, they're just sealed into a matrix that isn't wearing. Work down this list in order.

  1. Move to a softer bond. This is the fix that actually solves it. Everything below buys you time.
  2. Run fewer tools. Less diamond contact means more pressure on each remaining segment.
  3. Slow the grinder down. More dwell time gives the tooling a chance to bite.
  4. Cross-grind the floor. Change direction instead of following the same path over and over.
  5. Dress the diamonds. A small amount of clean abrasive silica sand can open up glazed tooling.
  6. Change the segment pattern. Move from a 4-Bar to a 2-Bar and let physics do the work.

Tooling disappearing way too fast

You're on soft or abrasive concrete and the floor is grinding your diamonds instead of the other way around. Move to a harder bond, more segment contact, and a full tooling configuration.

Configuration

Full set vs.
fewer tools

The Mule runs 9 tooling positions. How many you fill changes how the machine cuts, and it's one of the fastest adjustments you can make on a job.

9

Full set

Machine weight spread across more diamonds

  • Smooth operation
  • More consistent scratch
  • Longer tooling life
  • Good general-purpose setup
  • Better for flattening and broad production

6

Reduced set

More pressure on each remaining diamond

  • More aggressive cut
  • Helps on hard concrete
  • Can open glazed tooling

Keep tooling balanced around the heads. Never pull tools off one side of a grinding head. And remember that tooling run in a reduced configuration wears faster — if you later mix those tools back in with unused ones, your segment heights won't match.

Compatibility

Run ours.
Run theirs.
We don't care.

Workhorse machines are built to give you tooling flexibility. Alongside Workhorse direct-fit tooling, the Mule accepts industry-standard 3-hole trapezoid tooling, and the supplied adapter system lets you run dovetail-style tooling too.

Bond, grit and segment principles are universal. Whether you're running Workhorse tooling, 3-hole trapezoids or compatible dovetail tooling, pick your diamonds based on the concrete and the job — not the logo stamped on the tool.

Workhorse tooling mounted on the Mule grinding head
Workhorse tooling mounted on the head
The Workhorse adapter plate on the Mule
The adapter plate, which is what opens the machine up to other tooling

Ready to order

Our diamonds
do damage.

Own a Workhorse machine? You automatically get 25% off all Workhorse-specific diamond tooling on every re-order. Discount applies at checkout.